HOW WE BUILD HANDMADE LUXURY WRIST WATCHES
The Design and Manufacturing Process
There are numerous details in creating a fine watch. When I change one detail I end up changing the details on five technical drawings. Everything is developed in metric and we deal in hundredths of a millimeter. One hundredth of a millimeter is four ten thousands of an inch and that is an everyday measurement that we work with in our studio while making the watch cases.
Creating a new Geoffrey Roth watch takes literally hundreds of steps. Here is a look into the most critical steps involved in his watch making process.
Every new model requires two to three years from concept to delivery.
1
Hours visualizing, seeing the finished product in his minds eye with every detail down to the smallest screw.
2
Next is mechanical drawing by hand. Making concrete the vision, then fine tuning the drawings to fit the various components together. All the while maintaining structural integrity for water resistance and durability, and constantly refining the aesthetics.
3
Designing dials, hands, crowns, bezels, buckle covers, crystals, screws and gaskets.
4
Software programming for cutting of a new watch model on the CNC machine (a computer based, high precision, high speed milling machine).
5
Ordering of raw materials. Ordering specific cutting tools for machining each model. Test machining these materials.
6
Loading up the CNC machine with work holding devices and tooling for specific models. Then fine tuning CNC programming for specific feeds and speeds to material and tool. And finally, fine tuning the machine setting to achieve the exact fit of the components during assembly.
7
Production machining of the cases with the CNC machine in the studio.
8
Careful sanding, polishing and hand detailing of cases after machining.
9
Setting of the crystals. Fitting the crown tube to the watchcase, then fitting, finishing and setting of a gold bezel to the watchcase.
10
Fitting the dial to the movement. Setting of the hands, and afterwards trimming of the winding stem to fit the case and setting the crown to the stem.
11
Final quality checking for fit and finish and assembly of all the components.
12
Vacuum and pressure testing of the case for water resistance.
13
Final polishing of the case & fitting of the strap and buckle.
14
Recording of time of manufacture, testing, types of materials used for each piece.